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Posted by Paul A Brierley at 09:39 on 2012 Feb 26
I have a question for every Canon user on here.How good is the above, for astro-imaging?I have been for a while now, considering up-grading my Atik 16ic to a 314l+. However. I can’t really afford the asking price of a new 314l+ CCD camera.Recently. I have been very impressed, with the number of very high quality Canon, DSLR images. And It started me thinking.I already own a very good CCD camera already. And wonder whether. A modified Canon 1100D as sold, Astronomiser, might be a better solution, and cheaper one. For large format colour imaging.Pros.Full colour. With software control, of all camera settings. Including Bulb.And.Excellent colour response.Cons.The camera isn’t cooled. So I will need darks and flats. And the camera can only be used for astro-imaging.I can still use the Atik 16ic for galaxies and other smaller subjects.But-I would like to take, wide field images with a DSLR. Of larger nebulae. NGC 1499-7000 etc.Using H-Alpha and my little APO. I also want to use it, with my Orion O 200-800 F4 "astrograph". For imaging galaxies and star cluster’s.I would welcome any advice from Canon camera user’s, on this forum.I am particularly interested to know, what I need to couple the camera to these telescope’s.And. What comes in the box.
Posted by Nick James at 11:54 on 2012 Feb 26
Hi Paul,I dont have an 1100D but I have used Canon cameras extensively for astro-imaging and they are very good. I have a modified Canon EOS 10D which is quite old now but works very well and an unmodified Canon 550D. Flats, darks and biases aren’t too difficult and when you use them the fact that the chip isn’t cooled doesn’t seem to give many problem. I use IRIS for processing and the Canon tools (which include remote control and RAW processing). The Canon tools come with the camera. Battery life in long exposures is pretty good now as well. You’ll need some simple adaptors (usually 2" focusser tube extenders and a Canon T mount adaptor) but these can be picked up reasonably cheaply if you look around.Tony Morris’ book on DSLRs is a good start. Some of my pics with the different systems are on-line here:Megrez 72 + modified Canon 10D:http://www.nickdjames.com/Media/Astronomy/deep-sky/NGC7000_20090929_ndj.jpg.phphttp://www.nickdjames.com/Media/Astronomy/deep-sky/m31_20081021_2200_ndj.jpg.phpLenses + Canon 550Dhttp://www.nickdjames.com/Media/Astronomy/deep-sky/sco_20100712_ndj.jpg.phphttp://www.nickdjames.com/Media/Astronomy/Kelling2011/ngc7000_20110925_ndj.jpg.phpNick.
Posted by Paul A Brierley at 12:07 on 2012 Feb 26
Thank you Nick.I’m now seriously thinking about a 1100D rather than a Atik314L+I will study your images later today.Thank you again.
Posted by Tony Morris at 19:09 on 2012 Feb 28
PaulIf you go down the "Canon" route I would recommend that you invest in BackYardEos (BYE) http://www.backyardeos.com to control your camera if you are using Microsoft windows. It has really improved my DSLR image capture work-flow.There is also another similar piece of software http://www.ideiki.com/astro/Default.aspx but I don’t have any experience of it.Also using Bhatinov focussing masks & liveview work together very well.I have also used BYE to capture the live view feed for planetary imaging, Ok Damien Peach has no need to be worried but I have been pleased with what I have seen; using Registax.Tony
Posted by Paul A Brierley at 19:20 on 2012 Feb 28
Tony,I think I heard you mention this program, during the Leeds AM last November. It does look, very good indeed.I really still don’t know, what to do. OK. An Atik314l+ will not have the same sized sensor. And thus. Field of view, the Canon will have.But. The CCD camera will have a considerably cleaner image that doesn’t require dark frames, to remove noise.But I read Nick’s comments. He mentioned the newer cameras, don’t suffer too much from noise. Which is very reassuring.I don’t have the cash yet. So I have plenty of time to think, whilst saving UP.Do you have a website showcasing your DSLR images?
Posted by Tony Morris at 23:22 on 2012 Feb 28
PaulIts surprising what can be done with DSLRs using relatively short exposures and stacking. All the images I used in the BAA DSLR book did not have any calibration frames. The key to success is expose for as long as possible and obtain as many images as possible and stack them. As Nick states modified cameras work very well as they are 3 to 4 times more efficient at Ha wavelengths according to various sources on the web. Another key component is the image processing software, IRIS is well regarded and very powerful and FREE! However I have never mastered the user interface. I use PixInsight which is also very powerful and the user interface is much better in my opinion, currently its around 170 Euros.I also have a CCD camera, but my DSLR has got much more sky time under its belt as it works a treat with my 60mm and 90mm refractorsI don’t have a web page.Tony
Posted by Paul A Brierley at 18:12 on 2012 Feb 29
Hi Tony/Nick.I have decided to. Buy one, after thinking and thinking it over.I have a fine, fast, F4 Newtonian and ZS66SD APO (william Optics) which this camera will work nicely with.What other bit’s and piece’s will I need?
Posted by Tony Morris at 19:35 on 2012 Feb 29
PaulI’m sure you will not regret your decision…..All the guidance you need id in the BAA DSLR booklet as Nick has pointed out.I would add a focussing mask and BackYardEos to your line up.Tony
Posted by Paul A Brierley at 21:49 on 2012 Feb 29
Hi Tony,I have the book on order with the shop. Hopefully this will arrive later this week.I will add BY to my list together with. A EOS Astronomik CLS and HA clip filter and 50mm lens. At a later date.I’d like to use the lens with one of these filters for piggy back widefield imageing.
Posted by Paul A Brierley at 20:57 on 2012 Mar 01
Hi Guy’sI have Tony’s book. And I look forward to reading it.I have also. Brought a second hand, and mint. Un-moddified 1000D of Astro-Buy Sell.I will get the camera modded later this year. The camera is in very good condition, and comes boxed with 2x batteries and charger together with user manuals.I have a T-mount to use. And I hope to give it first light this week-end.
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