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Jack
I had to adjust the white screws on the collimator body until the belt stopped slipping. In fact I took one of them out completely leaving just the one to add tension to the body. Other than that,and the velcro added to the motor shaft nothing has been stuck to the collimator body. One other point now that you have removed the cover/door I would be more inclined to block off the gaps that have now been introduced around the lens body so as to stop dust getting to the grating itself. Got the idea from Paul Lukas (second photo down)..
http://jazzistentialism.com/blog/?page_id=1397
Regards
Alun
Hi Lyn,
I did a Google search and found these on Ebay and the filters are being sold for under £3, not only that but the description on how to use these filters is beyond belief 🙁
Best Regards
Alun
Jack,
That belt looks ideal for the job. To join my belt I made sure that each end was in the middle of a tooth to ensure ample area to bond, slid a length of heat shrink tube on belt then used Araldite rapid (sets in 5mins) to glue the joint. Held the belt in place until glue held but was still slightly tacky then slid tubing in place over joint and added heat to shrink ensuring a good strong bond 🙂
Regards
Alun
Jack,
Looking good, I was going to ask how you intend to cover the hole but then remembered you use the black bag to cover the whole Lhires. Hopefully you’ll find a belt to fit soon, as I stated earlier the Robot shop should have something suitable. The yellow is just a strip of velcro (hook side) stuck to the spindle just to give the belt a bit more purchase.
Regards
Alun
Jack,
The belt diameter is roughly 3 inches in diameter depends on the thickness of the material you use to make the replacement door/cover. I found it easy to work out the diameter when all the bits where attached to the Lhires,then used length of string to wrap round collimator body and cog of motor. Have attached another photo showing the size of the teeth on the belt (these are small,don’t need them too large) and the bits and pieces before assembly. As I described in my opening post the belt was originally in an Epson printer. Being a large loop I just cut it open and then just cut suitable lengths off to use for both the micrometer shaft and this mod,to close the loop I used Araldite and heat shrink tube.
Just to clarify the motor I have on order is the one I’ve added the text to a few posts back.
Best Regards
Alun
Jack,
It is the small one pictured in my last posting. I will get round it,just means I’ll have to modify the bracket on the motor.If I cannot get it to fit satisfactorily then I’ll attach it to my 6″ refractor and keep the Skywatcher on the Lhires
Only being bulky other than that it works I have no problem with it at all. In fact if the box covering the motor were to be reduced to just cover the cog and slot to stop light and dust then I believe most of the bulk will be lost. The motor works with the HitechAstro focus controller for PC control. I recommend it for the job 🙂
Best Regards
Alun
Jack,
You are welcome and I wish you good luck with your modification 🙂
I agree the slotted bracket would be a better choice, and your mentioning it has made me come to realise that the motor I have planned to use hasn’t got that luxury! Oh well,more head scratching (avoiding the splinters) when the motor arrives 🙂
Best Regards
Alun
Jack,
The motor has a shaft which is obviously a lot smaller than the Skywatcher motor,I am thinking the shaft’s length will be near on the width of the belt so I will use the cover as a stop to keep the belt in place or failing that I will make a sleeve to slide over the shaft so as to make it longer. The motor itself will be easier to attach to the custom cover due to the bolts being at the rear of the unit (aiding stability of motor)
Another alternative to the Skywatcher from JMI is just as bulky and same price as all the JMI motor focusers (£185) is pictured below, but not sure if the width between mounting bracket forks will clear the belt so will possibly need modification with a file. Just to note the Skywatcher focus motor is only £45 – £50 if the bulkiness of the mod isn’t a concern.
Best Regards
Alun
Jack,
I have an observatory but don’t leave the Lhires attached to scope as at times I may use the Alpy or stick a camera on the scope to image 🙂
The motor focus you linked to is much the same as the one I used to operate the grating adjustment,but the one I have ordered to replace the collimator motor is much smaller…
I am hoping I can modify the cog wheel covers by removing the large one and still use the top part to cover slot for belt again hoping to do away with the large box I have at the moment. Okay using the bulky motors but they do add extra weight to the unit.
Lhires was not harmed in any way during these modifications, no extra holes needed and all can be reverted to original. New replacement door/cover made from a bit of ply made long enough to attach the motor bracket (simply a length of ali bent to 90* angle) Bolt holes countersunk on reverse of cover so as not to foul body of Lhires. For latching down I just copied the original idea and moved it to the far end of the cover (only place it can go to clear belt). Also note the yellow velcro (hook side) on the motor cog, helps to grip the belt. (ignore the standoff nuts holding the bracket,they are all I had in the required size!)
Regards
Alun
Hello Jack,
Thank you.
I got my belt out of an old printer I’d broken up, being a large loop of the stuff I just cut it to the length I wanted then re-joined the ends using Araldite and heat shrink tube. I should think these guys will have what you are looking for though
https://www.robotshop.com/uk/gears-belts-pulleys-tracks-sprockets-chains.html
An update:- A couple of findings,the motor and belts work as planned. No need for gear wheels on neither the collimator nor the micrometer spindle. No fear of belt slipping off the collimator due to lip on the end and both focus motors and micrometer have rubber tap washers on the ends to stop belt slipping off. I am planning on changing the Skywatcher focus motor as it is a bit on the bulky side and now the Lhires will not go back into its supplied case, because of this I am looking at purchasing a much smaller JMI focus motor so as that the box covering the motor now can be done away with. I did state in my last message that there was some shift when operating the focus motor but realised afterwards that there is the same amount of shift when operated manually and also the lock screws need to be adjusted just loose enough to allow the collimator to turn but enough pressure to stop it tilting toward the motor. Same again with the belt, there is hardly any pressure against the collimator and motor, just enough to allow belt to keep contact without slipping .
Regards
Alun
Hi John,
Nice spectra,I managed to find this thread on Cloudy nights and it seems the emission lines are not artifacts but are indeed real.
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/592631-psi-persei-and-phi-persei-spectroscopy/
Regards
Alun
Thank you Tony, there is a little bit of weight added,depends on size of motors, and the box to cover the motor is made from foam card so no weight there 🙂 As far as vibration is concerned I haven’t witnessed any as such. I do know there is a very slight shift within the collimating lens when using motor but that can be sorted by adjustment of the original lock screws (found this out after my posting the info above). I always thought I had focus on neon lines sharp when I set it up manually,but it’s surprising how much sharper the lines get when I can just nudge the rotation,certainly makes a difference.
Regards Alun
Hi Andy,
Now that the lamps are automated it saves me having to keep getting up to manually operate the switches, plus there are times that I do control the kit remotely from indoors. Next couple of projects will be to add servos to the micrometer spindle and the collimating lens so as to aid remote grating adjustment and focusing.
Best Regards
Alun
If you are thinking of changing your guide camera, a mono version will be better than colour as it will be that much more sensitive without the Bayer Matrix. Just been scouring the pre-owned pages of Telescope House website and have come across a secondhand Starlight Xpress Lodestar if you are interested,works well with the Alpy.
https://www.telescopehouse.com/offers/preowned/preowned-starlight-xpress-lodestar.html
Regards
Alun
….according to the QHY web site,but doing a Google search found an entry in aliexpress for this very camera with a price tag of…….£11,359.50 and a “Sorry this item no longer available” entered below it!
Hi Paul,
Thank you 🙂
No I don’t play golf,but I do tend to spend on astro kit,12 telescopes and more accessories than the average astro shop! :))
Regards
Alun
Hi Jack,
Thank you 🙂
After my attempts at DIY spectroscopes (and failing) I decided enough was enough and took the plunge on the Lhires III,not exactly cheap,but then what is in this hobby of ours! 🙂
Regards
Alun
Hi Ernst,
Thank you for sharing the results,this has given me the confidence that I am doing something right although I still have a long way to go regarding the learning curve involved in this subject 🙂 As soon as the weather improves here I will keep monitoring 28 Tau amongst other targets.
Regards
Alun
