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Hi Michael,
I had a plate made up for me in order to top mount my Tak 85 on top of the rings for my main skope a 150, I used parallax to make them up for me. They are based in New York and the plate can be moved up and down to adjust the balance. I think this is much more stable and eliminates flexure
Nick
You can use losmondy plates for sise by side. Probably a god idea to guide scope on top to reduce flexure.
Balancing Side-by-Side
In a nutshell, this is what you should do. If you are careful about following
this procedure without shortcuts or “guesstimates”, you will save a lot of
time and effort in the long run. People look at the procedure and say “Heck
with it, I’ll just wing it.” They usually end up sorry!
The key is preparation! You are balancing 3 systems. Balance
accordingly, and balance individually, first. Do ALL of this on a work table,preferably with a helper.
1. Balance the first system.
a. Fully assemble one of the telescope systems you will be using.
This includes, but is not limited to:
i. The dovetail for that scope
ii. The rings or other attachment medium
iii. The complete imaging train including all adapters,
correctors, telecompressors OAGs etc.
iv. All guiding hardware if it will be on this system
v. Any finders or other devices
vi. Any special wiring harnesses or electronic devices
vii. Dew Heaters and controllers.
viii. ANYTHING that will be attached to this system!!
b. Adjust focus as close as possible to where it will be for imaging.
c. Place a dowel rod under the mounting plate to create a see-saw.
BE CAREFUL!!
d. Using the dowel rod as a fulcrum, find the exact balance point of
the system.
e. Mark the exact balance point with a piece of blue painter’s tape.
2. Balance the second system.
a. Basically, repeat the above steps.
3. Since the two parallel dovetail saddle plates are probably somewhat
offset, we need to next balance the side-by-side plate trio FRONT TO
BACK first.
a. This should just be the bottom transverse dovetail plate and the
two parallel saddle plates that are bolted on top. Nothing else.
b. Run the dowel rod lengthwise under the bottom dovetail plate. Try
to keep it parallel with the transverse plate.
c. Balance the trio of plates front to back on the dowel rod. d. Mark each saddle plate at the point where it balances over the
dowel.
e. Remove the dowel rod.
4. Attach each scope system. Simply line up the tape balance points on
each saddle with the tape balance points on each of the parallel
saddles.
5. Now place the dowel rod back under the bottom dovetail plate, but this
time it is perpendicular to the dovetail (parallel to the OTAs).
a. Rock the system back and forth until you find its balance point.
b. Mark the bottom dovetail with tape at the exact balance point.
6. Put the entire system into the primary saddle plate. This plate will have
limited adjustment because it is fixed by its mounting holes. The final
part of this is the trickiest.
a. Our saddle plates offer several mounting options. Look at the
setup in front of you and decide which set of mounting holes will
best serve your needs.
b. Mark the center of the mounting hole pattern that you will be using
with tape. This may not necessarily be the perfect balance point.
7. Place the dowel rod under the center of the mounting hole pattern..
8. Now, adjust the bottom dovetail in the saddle until the system is
balanced above the dowel that is in the center of the Dec mounting hole
pattern.
9. Mark the saddle and bottom dovetail so you know exactly where the
dovetail needs to be positioned.
10. Take everything apart, but DON’T LOSE THOSE TAPE PIECES!!
11. When you reassemble, simply line up your tape pieces and 95% or
more of your Declination side-by-side balancing will be done.
12. Final note: When balancing RA, more weight higher up on the shaft
is better than less weight further down the shaft. See the attached PDF.
I hope this is helpful. If the preliminary work is done carefully, you will blow
anyone away who might be watching you. Most experienced observers
shake their heads when they see someone trying to set up a side-by-side
system because they know how hard it can be to get the thing properly
balanced. It is very satisfying to put the pieces together and have near
perfection right from the get-go!
The main issue with seaing a Fibre Glass Dome is the flexure of of the material consequently should you nudge against the wall the base will move breaking the seal.
I used 1 mitre stud lengths cut them intop 6″ lengths using a heavy duty drill inserted around the dome. It is necessary to use a concreate to stainless steal bonding this is inseted into the predrilled hole with the stud length rammed down with a hamer ande finally cap this with a stailess streal nut and washer. I have around 20 of these in total. The door needs particular attention.
Lifting the dome wll as you go around the circumferance of the dome lifing section by section get all the sealent under the rim and bolt down.
Finally there is a product called “sticks like shit” that works well when mending brken clay pots amongst other things.
Best of luck
Nick
Hi William,
The HitecWeather Deluxe I have works on the same basis as AAG incorporating s two sensors, a high precision Infra-Red (IR) measuring device and a digital temperature sensor. Using this data the level of cloud and be determined and set to specific values. It also has a direct feed that can be wired and trip the relay and close the shutter. I think given the choice I might have gone for the AAG version as this also has the option of a wind detector and a proven link to the Boltwood compatible single-line data file but as this was a prescent from my wife and son so I need to stick with it. HiTecAstro also has its own software but I cannot workl out how tol link this to the Bolwood file. The Boltwood Cloud sensor would cost over $ 2,000 this has a link to Maxim Dl but the price is excessive. They do have a replacement Adapter Box which might be an option but this works on 24 volts However, I noted your comment that AAG software would also work with HitecAstro It might be worth a try before buying ACP
Cheers Nick
Hi William, Would you kindly let me what software you are using to detect clouds on your AAG cloud detector
I have finally worked out the problem was. The long wet winter had caused the control box to mal function. Now dried out everything is fine.
Cheers Nick
Hi
You were right to conclude that I have bought a new lap top in fact a HP computer with Widows 10
Maxim DL is working without any problems which I use for imaging as is PixInsight. I have been in contact with Mathew at Pulsar who is fixing some bugs in his observatory package resulting from Windows 10
I have a real problem with Sky X though, It will Park the telescope in position 1, 2 and 3 but when I point to polaris it has the notion that it is in New Zealand. I have the latest version 12034.
Initially my thoughts were it must be a timing issue so double checked the location date and time were set correctly. It makes no difference using the hand paddle, connecting via the serial port or using Astro Physics APCC to connect via ethernet. However, should I manually move the scope to Alkaid and synchronize to that position the scope will point to Alcor or M101 and slew there.
Requesting a park position 3 results in a slew to somewhere else.. I have asked George at Astro-Physics is he has any ideas but I think the problems lies with SkyX.
Cheers
Nick
Hi,
I have a 6″ Triplet made by Beacon Hill the is now surplus to my requirements having recently bought a Takakaski scope. It is fitted with an electronic focuser and a Baader Planitarium 60 mm finder scope.
|Cheers
Nick
Good Evening William.
I ordered the RG-11 Hydreon rain detector yesterday and today it was delivered. The pulsar dome relay opens the shutter when there is no current and closes when a 12 volt supply is connected. This implies that I will need have the relay to be off when there is no rain and on when raining.
Switches nos 5 only for very sensitive and 1 and 5 for sensitive and switch 3 on to hold the output for 15 minutes.
I need to get a mounting bracket to fix to the wall and some wires to connect and let you know how I get on.
Thank you for your very comprehensive reply
Nick
Good Evening William.
I ordered the RG-11 Hydreon rain detector yesterday and today it was delivered. The pulsar dome relay opens the shutter when there is no current and closes when a 12 volt supply is connected. This implies that I will need have the relay to be off when there is no rain and on when raining.
Switches nos 5 only for very sensitive and 1 and 5 for sensitive and switch 3 on to hold the output for 15 minutes.
I need to get a mounting bracket to fix to the wall and some wires to connect and let you know how I get on.
Thank you for your very comprehensive reply
Nick
Hi Paul
My Pulsar observatory also suffers some condensation not so much as now in the autumn but more so as the temperature drops and dew appears on the grass and the devels hand shows on the last of the blackberrys. I bought pulsars floor kit consisting of a poluthene sheet and some cushoned interlocking rubber like flooring to go on top. Your first problem is undoutedly the concrete absorbing moisture and then releasing it during the night and condensing onto the roof. I have just looked inside my dome and currently there is no sign of any dew on the dome roof. Winter drawing closer will increase the risk and I now have an ecoair dehumidifier. The first step I suggest is to seal the concrete surface, you can get this from B&Q etc. and then cover the surface with a plastic sheeting to see how this goes. Some people use a fan heater to raise the dew point as an alternative to a dehumidifier.
Best of luck
Nick
Indeed, a great meeting and many thanks for the organisers, missed out on the observitory tour ( left it too late). This was a good opertunity to have an extended 10 days travelling over the Sperrin Mountains to The Barn in Larne situated some 4 away miles with dark skies. Our cottage was well situated to visit the Giants Causeway, the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and the Glenariff Nature Reserve with cascading water falls. Tollymore Forest Park via the Mountains of Morne and the silent valley plus a visit to Belfast.
Northern Island is a great place to visit and it pays to be a member of the Nation Trust
Many thanks Hazel for the last minute booking.
Indeed, a great meeting and many thanks for the organisers, missed out on the observitory tour ( left it too late). This was a good opertunity to have an extended 10 days travelling over the Sperrin Mountains to The Barn in Larne situated some 4 away miles with dark skies. Our cottage was well situated to visit the Giants Causeway, the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and the Glenariff Nature Reserve with cascading water falls. Tollymore Forest Park via the Mountains of Morne and the silent valley plus a visit to Belfast.
Northern Island is a great place to visit and it pays to be a member of the Nation Trust
Many thanks Hazel for the last minute booking.
Hi Nick,
This looks like something worth looking at. I have be been thinking about using ethernet LAN point to point aka peer to peer from my observatory HP windows 7 machine to my PC now on window 10 since it blew a fuse in my study. Which VPN do you use?
Clear skies
Nick
Hi folks,
From 14th January 2020 Windows 7 will not be supported. This means that I will have to install all the software and data, or at least that is being suggested. My main concern is Maxim DL because it will be impossible to migrate from Windows 7 to Windows 10 and as Maxim is my Camera control and guiding functionality it will expensive if I have to buy a new version, maybe I should have in retrospect had subscribed for updates but my thinking at the time was to purchase a new version , currently I have maxim dl professionsal version 6 and await version 7 in due course.
Clear skies
Nick
Hi,
There are more updates with windows 7 which is the operating system in by observatory based lap top as against windows 10 on my PC. With regard to guiding I have found Maxim 6 very relaible using the sety box tab and multi star guiding with an errror of 0.25 of a pixel being achieved
Cheer
Nick
Hi John.
For many years before I bought a Pulsar Dome I had my telescope mounted on a pier and used the TeleGizmos Telescope Cover which meant there was no need to lug it in and out of the house every clear night. The only thing then required was a)_ Polar alignment and b) to attach the cables.
With regard to a) this was easier as I had a polar alignment scope.
Hope this helps
Nick
I have a VEHO 5 mega pixel scanner which will scan slides and negatives 35mm and 110 both to your PC and TV screen. I use it to scan through my negatives to review and print using an enlarger onto a developed print both black and white and colour using an analyser for colour. I have just reminded myself I have some eclipse slides needing processing
Best wishes
Nick
Hi Kevin,
I have remote control options on my mount, it has its own WIFI address as well as using the LAN. I have found using WIFI to be risky because if the link breaks down you may not be pointing the scope in the right direction.something I have encountered. I am considering using ethernet with a dedicated cable which would be far more reliable.
Best wishes
Nick
